Cow Intestines?? (5/31/2016)

*** NOTE: For the more entertaining version of our Camino, follow Rachel’s blog at RAMills03.wordpress.com. For a more reflective version, follow Eric’s blog at sabbathcamino.weebly.com. Keep reading mine if you can stand the length and the details…or maybe skim it? ;)

It’s hard to know where to start in describing today, but it is well worth describing!

A good night’s sleep in a good bed does wonders for the soul. And we stayed in a wonderful hotel on the French side of the Pyrenees. If was a funny little place with floors that changed elevation from room to room, and where rolling a marble down the hallway could be a fun adventure. Rachel had a view to the mountains and we had a view to the city—both equally inviting. 

Camino Passports

We began our day by finding the place to get our official Camino passports that must be stamped along the way in order to get a certificate of completion at the end of the journey. And we picked up shells to add to our backpacks so that we are no longer incognito. We wandered the city of St Jean for a while, trying out our fully loaded backpacks, our walking legs, and our map skills. Mine are lacking, and I am no longer allowed to voice my opinion about our route! ;)

We hired a taxi to drive us over the Pyrenees and got a lovely, twisty, winding drive through the mountains that allowed us to enjoy the view and congratulate ourselves on our decision NOT to walk that leg.

We arrived in the city of Roncesvalles shortly after noon. And, when I say “city”, I grossly exaggerate! When I asked our taxi driver for a recommendation for a restaurant, we said, “I only know one there.” Turns out there might have been three… but the one he recommended was good…at least it ENDED good.

I love to travel, but we are picky eaters at best! Now, one of the MAJOR blessings of this journey is that Rachel (who is gluten intolerant) has discovered that she can eat bread here. (Something to do with the difference in the way Europeans process their wheat. We had been told this, but Rachel was hesitant to get her hopes up.) So, we’ve had several “risky” meals (but all with EXCELLENT bread!)

An appetizer of cow intestines

We come to the restaurant at Roncesvalles, and we want to have food, but we aren’t sure we understand the menu. Rachel speaks a bit of Spanish, but I miss her warning when the waiter suggests a shared appetizer. He highly recommends, so I accept. He walks away and Rachel says, “Mom, I think that’s cow intestines!” It was a soup, sort of thing that was rich in grease, and the pieces of meat were very strange in texture. And even though I wanted to be a good pilgrim and appreciate the food set before me, I just couldn’t. None of us could. But I was really hungry for something that would satisfy. 

Now, you have to have something good to drink with a meal, and I had recently discovered Sangria before our trip. Since that was on the menu, Rachel and I had to order some. Imagine our surprise when Alejandro pulled out a pitcher and began to mix our Sangria—a bottle of wine, sliced lemon, squeeze an orange, a shot of something from at least 3 bottles :0. And then he delivers it to us in a tumbler, like you’d serve a big iced tea or lemonade in! Delicious!

Alejandro was visibly saddened when we couldn’t eat the appetizer. We asked about the pilgrim menu, but he came back to tell us there was no grilled chicken, only pork. He brought out a full menu and began to offer ideas.

When all was said and done, we had a table full of food! First he brought 2 pasta plates (Eric and I shared one and couldn’t eat it all), then came two plates of chicken wings (delicious, but we are already stuffed!) and THEN comes the largest plate I’ve ever seen, piled high with potatoes topped with pork pieces and some sort of cream sauce. Fully embarrassed, not to mentioned stuffed, we did our best to eat all we could. And, of course, asked to take it to go. Which was enough to feed us dinner! And all the time, Alejandro is our patient, friendly and funny waiter.

As we end our meal, we do some quick math and figure that even if he charged us at the pilgrim menu price (which he shouldn’t) our bill should be at least 40 Euros. When I go to the bar to pay, he insists that Eric (the husband) must pay! And I ask to take his picture. He turns to the computer to ring our bill and quietly says to Eric: “20 Euro”. Eric tries to argue, but Alejandro insists, and won’t even accept a tip.

Alejandro and the fan (and the leftovers!)

He brings us BAGS of leftovers and asks to take a picture of all of us. Even turns to the nearby table to hand them the phone. :) He and Rachel exchange Facebook info and then he insists on coming outside to hug the Papa.

Blessings abound! And the Camino is just beginning! Tomorrow the challenge of walking begins with a 16 mile leg. Woo Hoo!

Blessings - Big & Small

If yesterday was a hurry up and wait day, today was not! At least not once we boarded our airplane. After learning that our flight was cancelled, we began to call to get arrangements switched. Our first call to Copenhagen (because we were flying SAS Airlines, which is Scandinavian), gave us a new flight out which would have left Monday evening at 10 p.m. Two days past our initial date. Another passenger suggested calling their Paris number since that was our flight destination. A good choice, because a very helpful man asked, “How soon do you want to leave?” (Bless him!) I said, “Well, we are at Chicago O’Hare already, so we are ready now!” That got us a 6 p.m flight non-stop to Paris. :)

After having spent roughly 28 hours in the Chicago airport, we were very excited when the plane arrived at the gate, the crew showed up, and we were finally asked to board.

Of course, we cleared TSA as early as we were allowed (12 hrs prior to take off) and zipped right through security. But we didn’t have seat assignments. Once we realized this, we went to the United desk to ask and they explained that the attendants at the gate for our flight were the only ones who could give us seats.

And of course, we arrived at our gate quite early, too. So early, in fact, that they were boarding the last of the passengers on a flight to Frankfurt. The lady working the gate for that flight struck up a conversation with us. She asked if we were waiting for that flight, and we said no and explained a bit about our situation and had a fun conversation. Then I asked if she could get our seat assignments or if we would have to wait for our crew to arrive. First, she said only they could make the assignments. Then she said, “Let me see something.” Then she stealthily threw us new boarding passes! :) Not only did she give us seats…together…but also the roomiest seats in the Economy section because they were the first row, right behind the bathrooms (a small blessing for me!) with plenty of leg room for Eric (a big blessing for him!).

And then our day of waiting ended! We had reservations on a train to St Jean Pied de Port that boarded at 12:25 p.m. And we were due to land in Paris at 9:30 a.m. And, we didn’t realize at the time…but the train station was on the other side of town. (See, if didn’t matter before because we were supposed to land on Sunday morning and catch the train on Monday. Plenty of time…) So, we grabbed our luggage, grabbed a taxi (with a driver who spoke NO English) and began our trek (with only a small question mark in our minds about whether we were indeed going where we needed to go). 

Eric and Rachel on the train from Paris to Bayonne

We arrived at the train station at 11:50 a.m., with just enough time to find the information desk and ask how to know what platform to depart from and grab a quick sandwich to take with us (but no water). We board the train and take a deep breath. We sat next to a lovely lady who gave me a small bottle of water! Needless to say, we ate and slept! But, as we near our stop, we hear people talking and realize our train is behind schedule. And we have a connection to make between Bayonne and St Jean Pied de Port. Suddenly, we begin to wonder if we will make our connection! What was scheduled to be 30 minutes to make our connection turned into getting off the train, finding the platform and watching the training we need pull up. By the time we put our heads to pillows on Monday night, we are back on schedule for our journey! Not without challenges, but full of blessings.

Train from Bayonne to St Jean Pied de Port

Here are a few that come to mind:

A lovely taxi driver who doesn’t speak English, but transfers us smoothly and calmly through heavy Paris traffic and refuses to take a tip.

A kind lady who shares her water on the train and refuses to accept my attempt to replace it.

A lovely little French woman who carried on a conversation with a group of people on the train. She wasn’t talking to our family, and none of us understood anything she said, but it was a joy to watch her talk. She smiled freely and her face lit up with her words. She got off the train just before our stop and stood on the platform and smiled and waved as our train pulled away. Not because she knew a single person on that train. She had been talking to Peregrinos (pilgrims on the Camino), but she had made a connection.

And then there was the blessing of arriving in St Jean Pied de Port. It’s hard to put into words. We sat on the train from Paris and noticed that a man across the aisle from us carried a backpack and there was a shell attached to it (the sign of the pilgrim). We had spotted our first Pilgrim! We were so excited!! But then, we got to our platform for the last leg of our journey from Bayonne to St Jean, and suddenly they were EVERYWHERE! A full train and the vast majority were hauling backpacks, dressed to walk, carrying pilgrim gear. We wonder where they all came from, how they converged on Bayonne. What an amazing site. That’s when it got real! We weren’t dressed like them (yet) and we weren’t hauling our backpacks like them (yet). But we WERE them!

I think there must be an analogy in there somewhere… I guess as Christians, we may think we are a dying breed. We see ones and twos. We see the obvious ones because they wear it like a Pilgrim shell (or a cross) on their backpacks (or around their necks). We might not see the ones traveling incognito. But, every so often, we see a group converge…and it is wonderful.

Hurry Up & Wait (5/28/2016)

Note: For those of you who follow me on Facebook, you've already read this post. :)

Hurry up and wait. A phrase I learned in the military and came to understand all too well! Today was a hurry up and wait day. We wanted to get to the Green Bay airport and clear the TSA line only to discover that TSA wouldn't start checking people through until 1.5 hours before the flight. Made it over that hurdle and we were excited to get checked in at O'Hare. Only problem was that we had arrived around 3 and the airline wouldn't start checking people in until 5. So we waited. Plenty of time to clear TSA…again. And more waiting...for a flight that starts boarding around 9:30. 
They say your Camino starts as soon as you start planning. But each step closer makes it that much more real. Some steps are hard...like hugging your daughter and saying goodbye for 6 weeks. Some steps are intimidating…like do I have all the documents I need to board this flight. Some steps are unbelievable...like am I REALLY getting to do this. And with each step the excitement builds. My heart is full of gratitude for this opportunity. Thankful to the St Anne’s community for sending us off in an unforgettable manner--following our journey, praying for us, and building our community with The Daniel Plan (which I have downloaded and plan to read along the way). Thankful to the EPH community and the folks who are volunteering to fill in the gaps so I can go.And still we wait. We wait to land in Paris.We wait as we travel by train to the France/Spain border. And we wait as we cross the Pyrenees. Walking begins June 1, so still we wait. And the excitement builds. Dinner in Paris...a train ride...beautiful mountains. And my heart is full.UPDATE: And STILL we wait in the international terminal of O'Hare. Technical issues resulted in the cancellation of our flight on an evening when all the hotels in Chicago are full. So we will wait a bit longer. Thankfully, this journey is 6 weeks, not 6 days, so there is time. And we shuffle and we wait...

5/23/2016 - A Little Education

Our Journey is the bold red line. We will start walking in Roncevalles.

I thought today would be a good day to add general information about our trip and answer some basic questions. We are flying into Paris where we will spend the night before journeying by train to St Jean Pied de Port on the French side of the Pyrenees Mountains. We will spend the night there, pick up our pilgrimage "passports" before crossing the Pyrenees and heading into Roncesvalles. Once we are in Roncevalles, we will begin the walking portion of our trip. Our plan is to walk 33 days--one day for every year of Jesus' life--with 4-5 "Sabbath" days built in.

What are you packing?

We are each carrying an ultra-lite backpack that weighs about a pound. We plan to stay in hotels along the way, so we aren't packing sleeping bags, tents, food prep gear. 

Basically, we travel with our suitcases on our backs. Personally, I've packed one tank top, two short sleeve shirts, one light weight long sleeve (for cold mornings) and a hooded, long-sleeve running shirt, one pair of light weight hiking pants that zip into shorts, a pair of hiking shorts, a pair of capri length leggings, and a dress. All of these clothes are wicking and quick drying. A friend suggested the dress. The plan is to get into our hotel in mid-afternoon, wash out the clothes we are wearing and let them start drying and change into the dress for comfort. I've got a pair of Keen hiking boots and a comfortable pair of Clark flip-flop type sandals (that can get wet in case I need them for shower shoes). Basic undergarments hardly need mentioning. :) I have a Tilly hat to keep the sun off my face and neck and some light weight walking sticks. My "ditty bag" is seriously small--a comb, ponytail holders, deodorant, moisturizer with sunscreen, and I'm still debating about hairspray. My one indulgence in this area is a battery powered toothbrush. Added weight that I decided I must have. I just don't think my teeth will feel clean with a manual toothbrush...I know...1st world problems!

I've loaded lots of songs on my phone, which will basically become an ipod/camera on this trip. And, I'm planning to download a copy of the Daniel Plan so I can read along with the congregation when I get the chance. I've got a guide book that was recommended by a friend who walked the Camino several years ago, a small notebook for sketching (if I'm brave and/or REALLY bored) and journalling when I can't get to a computer.

I've also got two small pillows that I'll stuff into the backpack along with a sleep sack. Again, for comfort (and fear of bedbugs). I sleep with a pillow between my knees to help my back. I've done this since before the girls were born, and I think I'll sleep more comfortably there with my little pillow. (More info than you wanted?)

I'll have a pack of hygiene items, meds, blister prevention/treatment, etc., sunglasses, and charger. And I think that's about it.

The goal is to travel lightly. To reduce to the basic necessities. To simplify and live simply.

What are the available accommodations?

Well, our goal is to call ahead each day to make hotel reservations. We have our first 3 nights planned out, and will go from there. Along the path, there are hostels and hotels where we can stay. Our guide books list phone numbers for the hotels, so we should be fine.

Best laid plans often go awry, but right now, we see ourselves heading out around 6 in the morning. Our basic agreement is that we will walk in silence for the first few hours. We will stop along the way at cafes for coffee, snacks, lunch, etc, probably arriving at the hotel by mid-afternoon. Then we have time to socialize, enjoy dinner, get everything set up for the next day's journey. Spain still closes up shop for siesta from around 2-4 each afternoon, so that will be something to get used to...and enjoy.

What's the weather like?

 Well, we'll know for sure in about a week. But we are anticipating lows in the 50s and highs in the 70s & 80s, rising as the summer goes.

What will you eat?

Now, there's the great mystery! Having never been to Spain, I haven't a clue what we will be eating. But I'm pretty sure I'll find something that will do the trick. I'll report more on that, hopefully with pictures, as we journey.

What else?

We look forward to taking side journeys to view items of interest, getting to know people along the trail, and enjoying life in the moment. We want to work on "being spontaneous." :)

Preparations 5/19/2016

Preparatiins continue as our adventure draws near. I told my EPH boss today that I'd lost my mind. He said, "I know."
Wow! I didn't think it was that bad! Or, I guess I did...
Apparently that's what happens when you split your focus that much. I'm trying to wrap up the loose strings of two jobs, watch my oldest daughter try to figure out her path after graduating last Sunday, see my husband disentangle himself from our congregation and make sure I'm ready for this adventure. So maybe it's understandable that I'm having trouble maintaining focus.
I wonder if it will be better on the Camino? While I WANT the journey to be singular in focus, I wonder if it is really possible?
I am a person of constant distraction. And I suspect that I will take that with me wherever I go.
I guess we will soon find out...

The Preparation Continues (5/13/2016)

On the Camino, we anticipate walking about 15 miles a day. So we've been walking. Not 15 miles, but lots of walking. In fact, a few days ago, I threw a bunch of stuff into my backpack, loaded it up and walked a little over a mile to a meeting I needed to attend. There have been days when I've walked 8 miles, so a mile seems like a short trek. But, I was amazed that 10 lbs on the back could change the way I walked so much. My feet hit the ground differently. Muscles that I hadn't really noticed before suddenly felt different. Not painful, just different. And so it goes...

The Camino Begins

This is my attempt to document our journey along the Camino de Santiago de Compostela. They say your Camino begins the day you begin planning. For us, that began a while ago when Eric began the process of applying for a Lilly Grant for his sabbatical. We learned about the Lilly Grant from a fellow priest.

The application for this grant was a lengthy process of figuring out exactly what Eric wanted to accomplish on his sabbatical (12 weeks). Then we had to document all costs associated with it. And then the waiting began! If I remember correctly (and I have problems with that these days), we (and by that I mean primarily Eric) began researching and collecting information around November, 2014. The package for the Lilly Grant was due April 15, 2015, and we found out in August, 2015 that Eric was one of the recipients.

And then the REAL planning began. Clothes to purchase, backpacks to order, passports to renew, airline reservations to make, and LOTS of decisions to make.

We are blessed to walk as a family--myself, Eric, and our youngest daughter, Rachel. Our oldest, Katie, decided to remain behind. She just graduated from college and is excited to chase her future. So, we will carry her in our hearts and Skype and Facebook message her when we can.

And so we begin.