Since we've been on the Camino for over two weeks now, I think I'm comfortable saying we've settled into a routine. Today was a little different so I'll walk you through both.
Generally, we get up around 6:00 and the three of us can be ready to go by around 6:45. Today, our journey was going to take us up to a high flat place (elevation of 1050 meters--with a 12% grade!) so we decided to get up earlier and try to catch the sunrise. My alarm went off at 5:30. That's not too bad because we are generally in bed by 10.
The first thing we usually have to do is find the way from our hostel/hotel to the Camino. Some days, like today, we open our door and step onto the Camino. Other days, we have to wander a bit to reconnect to our path. Then there is the walk to get out of town. We used to try to leave, for the most part, in silence. But we have learned that we need to communicate so that we make sure we follow the camino path out of town.
Once we know we are on our way, we all pull out headphones. I think Eric is generally listening to a book during this time. Rachel and I listen to music. I've got several playlists that I can choose from. Some are old favorites and some I built specifically for the Camino.
Today, I started out listening to my "Jesus tunes" playlist, which was an excellent choice. I didn't realize how many of my Jesus songs referenced light. So, as we make our way to the hill we are about to ascend (and as we are crossing an old Roman bridge) I've got "Bless the Lord, Oh My Soul, also known as 10,000 Reasons, by Chris Tomlin playing in my ear: "The sun comes up, it's a new day dawning..." and on the song goes. If you don't know the song, pull it up on YouTube or something. It’s worth listening to!
Anyway, on a typical morning, we are three silent pilgrims, one behind the other, for about an hour, maybe more. Rachel is generally in the lead. She's the injured one, so we let her set the pace. And, especially when she is listening to her tunes, she sets a pretty good pace. Except for steep inclines and mean descents, we are generally on about a 3 mph pace.
After maybe and 1.5 hrs, one of us calls for food. It might be that we've come to a cafe and can order cafe con leche with tortilla patate and maybe some fresh squeezed orange juice (yum!). Sometimes that means pulling over and dragging out a snicker bar and/or banana and a bottle of water. Then we are back on the road. If the path is particularly difficult, we may put our headphones on again, or maybe we will just walk in silence, or we may chat a bit.
I would guess that about every hour, we pull over for just a bit so that I can take off my backpack. Today was a little better, so maybe I'm getting stronger, or more used to the pack.
As we walk, we take pics of things we find interesting, we stop and look at where we've been, and we pull out our guidebook to see what's ahead. Generally, 3-4 hours into our walk, we pull over somewhere to rest. Again, it might be a cafe, it might be a picnic table along the way, a shaded bench in a park, or just somewhere along the side of the road.
And, I would say that when we are maybe 1-1.5 hours away from our final destination, we generally go back to our headphones. On this leg, Rachel is generally listening to a book, and her pace slows a little (for which I am grateful!). I’m still listening to music, and I think Eric is, too. I’ve noticed that it is helpful to me, especially for steep inclines, to have a beat to step to.
Today was a particularly long day, and we knew that lots of stops would be in order because Rachel’s blisters continue to multiply and her foot and knee are not happy with her. So, after we climbed the 12% grade to a height of 1050 meters, walked across the top (Meseta) and descended again to 350 meters at a 12% grade, we found a lovely cafe and rested…for quite a while… with our cafe con leche, and tortilla palate.
We walked on another 2 hours or more before we stopped for lunch. We usually don’t have lunch until early afternoon after we’ve located our place for the evening. But, as I said, today was a long day and rests were called for. This was a fun stop because from the outside it looked like an old barn, and I think all of us were questioning our wisdom in stopping there. But, it was definitely a case of not judging a book by its cover. Inside was a mini oasis! Lush green grass, a small pool, shaded tables, and a wonderful waiter named Eduardo. We ate…and we rested…and we got to know Eduardo and took his picture.
And then we walked more. Another 2 hours or so. This time, we left Rachel on the outskirts of town while we located the hotel. It saved her feet the steps of locating the place…and today, all steps were precious. For more details, read this: https://ramills03.wordpress.com/2016/06/13/humble-pie/.
On a normal day, we might stop twice before we reach our destination. These are longer stops where we eat, use restrooms, sometimes take off shoes to rest the feet and check for blisters and hot spots.
Once we get into a village, we might stop in at the tourist information office, get a map of the city, ask questions and get a peregrino stamp. Once we find our place, it might be time to find a light lunch or snack, take our showers and wash our clothes and get them hung to dry. Most stores and places close for siesta from around 2-5, so there is little to do but rest. Which is good; we need rest! Most restaurants don’t start serving dinner until after 7, which is a change for us. And by the time we have finished dinner and picked up snacks or other needs for the next day(s) ahead, we are ready to find our room and settle down for the night.
And that brings us full circle, my friends! A day in the life…
Buen Camino!
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